By Christophe Tassan | Wine Director & Sommelier at The Battery in San Francisco
In wine, there is a factor the winemaker will always look for, will watch carefully, and never mention on the label: the acidic balance. Acids (tartaric, malic, and lactic, among others) are necessary for wine stability and balance. One of its indicators is measured in PH, meaning “potential of Hydrogen” (water is neutral at 7; wine oscillates between 3 and 5).
From a technical standpoint, the “PH” of a wine is a very important indicator of its health status, balance and overall structure stability. If it is out of range, the wine would not be enjoyable, such as if there is too much acid like a lemon at 2.5, or if there is not enough. It becomes a harmony factor.
I would like to pivot and talk more about the enjoyment of wine. From a wine lover, consumer or sommelier’s perspective; I would consider approaching or rating wines on their “PE” … Potential Emotion.
Knowledge should not be a barrier for wine enjoyment, and philosophy skills should not be necessary to taste either! It is without a doubt when you are interested in tasting, everything happens. Listen to your senses while tasting wine and enjoyment amplifies. PE of a wine is like the “volume” button. Rhône Valley Vineyards wines have naturally a higher PE level.
Let’s compare a Northern Rhône Syrah to a Southern Rhône Grenache blend. Our Syrah comes from the village of Tain l’Hermitage in the Northern Rhône and shows up with charm and elegance. It is brilliant purple, with expressions of blackberries. This Syrah varietal gives joy and is always ready to deliver. Here, Syrah is also gently “tuned down” by the Rhône River climate and granitic soil profiles. Harmony is the result.
Here is another example: our Grenache comes from the village of Gigondas. This village is on the eastern part of the valley where vineyards are located mountainside, and in cool shaded locations. Grenache here has tension, and its tannins have grip, all complemented with red berries, raspberries, fresh-crushed exotic pepper, and black tea flavors.
High PE links wine from both Northern and Southern Rhône Valley Vineyards! Both different and with their own character, these wines trigger high level of emotions. You don’t have to turn up the volume or lean in or even work very hard to hear the wine. By its genetics and its identity, the wines from the Rhône Valley are always ready, generous, with measured strength, and sparks emotions.
The location matters, and with centuries of vine growing and winemaking culture, the vineyards and the winemakers have adapted, tirelessly worked on helping the vine express its sense of place. Emotion is in the wine.
Learn more at SommCon Washington D.C. July 22-24, in the session Expressions of Grenache Presented by Rhône Valley Vineyards. The session, led by Lisa M. Airey of Wine Scholar Guild explores why Grenache is king in the Southern Rhône Valley, and dives into the different expressions of Grenache throughout the Côtes du Rhône, its crus and its neighboring AOCs.
